It is useful on the new vegetable garden or in case we want to use purchased organic fertilizers instead of manure.
We plant the plants for the green fertilization for the flowerbeds. We can cut them several times and use them as mulch, those frozen from the winter must be buried on the ground during the spring.
The most suitable plants for tillage and air circulation in the soil are the oil-bearing horseradish and the white mustard, since they sprout quickly, even in autumn, and do not overwinter – the frozen mass must be buried in spring.
Plants for green fertilization: white, black, underground, perch and Alexandrian clover, incarnate, white mustard, oil-bearing horseradish, alfalfa, broom, phacelia, buckwheat, wheat, barley.
Wheat and barley are suitable for green fertilization in greenhouses.
To disinfect the earth in case of lycophyte diseases, we sow marigold, marigold, and nasturtium on all the beds. There should always be some of these plants on the garden.
After the clovers, we sow the following year the Cruciferae, the pepper, the aubergine, the courgettes, the watermelons, the melons, and the cucumbers.
After the clovers the following two years, we do not plant legumes.
We use clovers and pulses to enrich the earth with nitrogen. We cut the plants and use them as mulch; instead, we leave the roots in the ground.
To add phosphorus, we add the common farewell, portulaca, vicia, and datura. We use them as mulch, but be careful: we are dealing with weeds, so they do not have to bloom yet.
To add potassium we use radicchio, endive, common centocchio, plantago, vicia.
To add calcium, we use buckwheat, dandelion, melon leaves.
We add silicon through the mulch of nettles, bananas, weeds, or horsetails.
To add sulfur, we use bulbous vegetables, Brassicaceae, common farewells, and portulaca.
In autumn, we can use legume seeds for fertilization before the germination period expires, and we leave them during the winter.
The effects of green fertilization will not be seen immediately but in some years.
Organic fertilizers purchased
We combine them with plants for green fertilization so that the earth is lighter.
We check which material the fertilizer is made of.
If we want a quality fertilizer, we look for it in the catalog of preparations issued by control organizations in Slovenia.
We carefully follow the instructions for use.
Their advantage is that they are heat treated and therefore do not contain weed seeds or pest eggs.
Soak the green parts of the plants for a few days (until the preparation stops making foam) to obtain liquid fertilizers.
They release an unpleasant smell, so be careful where we prepare them.
They should not be prepared in metal containers.
The hard part should be thrown on the compote. The liquid instead can be kept longer in containers closed well in the cold and in the dark.
We test the liquid on a smaller part of the flowerbed – perhaps it needs to be diluted.
We water in the afternoons, in the evenings or on cloudy days. We do not drink water on the leaves. Moreover, the earth must not be dry.
The nettle concoction (1 kg of fresh plants per 10 l of water) contains a lot of nitrogen and trace elements, we can use it for all plants, but it is the best for cruciferous and composite plants.
The concoction of comfrey (1 kg of fresh plants for 10 l of water) contains a lot of potassium and nitrogen. We can use it for all plants. We water it once a week.
If we mix both concoctions (when they are ready), we get a universal fertilizer.
We leave the concoction of herbs to soak during the winter, and before spring sowing, we use it to water the garden. We use horsetail, chamomile, valerian, dandelion, marjoram, garlic/onion leaves …
We can also water with the composted concoction: sprinkle the mixture with water and let the hard particles fall to the bottom. The water will be a light fertilizer.
It contains a lot of potassium and drives out snails, caterpillars, and lice.
In summer, we sprinkle it in moderate quantities around the plants.
It is especially useful for crucifers, composites, roots, and celery.
We use it to cover the ground so that it is not naked (not even in winter), and with this, we reduce the annoyances caused by bad weather and the rinsing.
Mulches maintain moisture in the soil and light soil, slow the growth of weeds, release nutrients into the earth, and are useful to micro-organisms in the earth.
They must be at least 3 cm thick. If necessary, we add.
When the weather is damp, we check that no snails accumulate under the mulch.
We can use a straw (at least 3 cm), cut grass (dried for at least a day, at least 15 cm), bark (at least 7 cm), newspapers (7 layers), compost, wool, and cotton.
To drive away from the snails, we use the elderberry, white mustard, or woodland fern mulch. For the crucifers, to prevent the arrival of caterpillars and the attic, it is useful for the mulch of tomato leaves or absinthe.
Very fragrant herbs (anise, fennel …) drive away plant flies. Rhubarb leaves eliminate the weeds and chase lice and the attic.